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A
last minute decision, at 10 o'clock on Sunday morning, to take advantage of the
fine weather, saw me posting a request on the NMC website forum, for a climbing
partner. Piotr Bamberski contacted me almost immediately (his girlfriend was
planning a shopping trip, and he was desperately looking for an excuse to avoid
the shops), I arranged to pick him up and within an hour of my post we were on
our way to Kyloe-the wonders of modern technology!
We
got there to find the weather was fantastic as predicted, and although there
were already a few people there, it wasn't too busy. It was Piotr's first time
and my second time at Kyloe but our first time climbing together.
I led
Flake Crack (4b S) to start and to give Piotr a chance to try out his new
shoes. Piotr then took the lead for the excellent Deception Crack (4b HS), and
made a really good job of it. I followed on with Slab and Wall (4c VS), the sun
was shining onto the slab all morning, so it was nice and dry, and time for me
to break out my new 'lucky' NMC t-shirt!
After
a quick cuppa at the bottom of Wilfred Prickles (5a VS) Piotr decided he would
lead it, even after the usual stories of regular falls from the route. He laced
it with gear and led it really well-I haven't led it yet, and I don't think I
want to! Piotr then led the other classic VS of Kyloe, Tacitation (5a VS),
again in fine style doing the overhanging start first time!
With
already 5 classic routes under our belt we went back round to the front of the
crag to do, I expected, my last climb of the day. I led Saint's Progress (4b
S), an interesting line (double ropes needed.)
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We
then looked at the 11m 5b E1, Pink Socks on Top, which starts at the same point
as Saint's Progress, we joked about climbing it, but then I suddenly decided I
would give it a try-probably due to us having done loads of good routes, that I
was feeling strong and the weather was perfect. I felt I was on a bit of a roll
so I quickly tied on and began climbing...
The
route starts off fairly easily, the first bit of gear goes in at a break, about
4m up, then comes the unprotected wall with the only way up via laybacks off a
really thin vertical edge, next comes a tricky mantle shelf (bit of a
knee-wobbler) onto a ledge. Once you are in a standing position on the ledge,
there is another break at head height, and then an imposing looking blank wall,
to the top. I laced the break with gear (six bits!) and finally went for the
move up the wall.
I got
my feet up, balanced on the right hand, reached full stretch with the left hand
for a hold. I touched a tiny hold with my fingers, and should of pulled on it,
I didn't, and tried to find something bigger... but of course there wasn't
anything bigger and in the meantime my left foot was slipping. I knew what was
coming but couldn't do anything about it... first my foot popped off followed
by the rest of me. The fall wasn't far, my feet started just above the gear and
stopped with my head just below the gear. Of the six bits of pro, only the last
bit ripped.
My
first lead fall. I got back on the ledge, checked and replaced the popped gear,
took a few deep breathes and went for the wall again. This time when I found
the tiny hold, I pulled on it, got my feet higher, grabbed the top of the route
and made a final mantle to top out-Yesssssss!
It
was a classic day, the type we live for, with everything falling into place-the
weather and the atmosphere were perfect, oh, and I led my first E1!
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