(Web editors note - Crag Point is an extemely dangerous crag - this guide is reproduced for historical purposes only. Original typographical errors have been reproduced in this version. )
While Newcastle is within reach of a number of outcrops in Northumberland, Crag Point is more accesible than most. It is an outcrop in the modern idiom providing steep routes of character, with a seriousness out of all proportion to its size. Although the cliff may not suit all tastes, it deserves attention and because of it's close proximity to Newcastle we felt it worthwhile producing a guide for climbers in the area. It is ideal for summer evenings.
At this point we would like to warn potential visitors that most climbs are serious due to the poor quality of the rock and protection. Extreme care should be exercised at all times but especially until technique has been adjusted. Although many of the main lines have been climbed, there is still scope for the pioneer and it is hoped that development will continue.
O.S. Map 78, Grid Reference : 343763
Crag point lies on the Northumberland coaast a quater of a mile south of Seaton Sluice. From Newcastle take the 408 (Blyth) bus, alighting at the Delaval Arms. The top of the crag is identified by a group of "war-time" buildings which can be reached by a public path. Descent to the climbs can be made from either end. The crag is 200 yards long, up to 60 ft. high and romed of carboniferous sandstone. The rock on the south part tends to be friable and loose and the finishes to a number of routes lie up very unstable shale.
NOTE: At high tide, sections B. C and D are cut off which is inconvenient as
far as access is concerned, but escape should be possible up the easier routes.
It is suggested, however, that note is taken of tide times, which are available
in local papers.
Prior to members of the University taking an interest, it is believed that climbers visited Crag Point, but few signs of their activities were found. It was obvious, however, that a few routes had been asended before.
Newcomers may find the following routes a good introduction to the crag.
Severe and below :- St. Mary's Chimney; St. Mary's Rib; Skanda; Skiver; Curving Corner.
Very Severe :- Arlanta; Complex; Entropy; Vashtar.
The climbs are described from left to right as one faces the crag. To make route finding easier, the cliff has been split into the following sections :-
Section A : 40 yards from the left hand end is an obvious depp chimney and to the right a buttress. This marks the end of the first section.
Section B: The most underdeveloped part of the crag. This section runs from the buttress past three large overhangs and two corners to a lare square cut bay (80 yards)
Section C : The bay itself
Section D : From the bay there is 40 yards of steep rock containing several corners grooves and cracks. The end of this section is marked by a detached block, which forms an easy way down.
Section E: Climbs to the right of the detached block.
Takes the end wall of the south end of the crag. Start by climbing onto a sqqare niche on the main face. traverse left to the areate and continue at the same level to the base of a shallow corner in the middle of the wall. Climb this over a slight bulge and continue to the top.
Start as for route1 by climbing into niche. Climb the right wall of the niche to the arete, then traverse the wall for 15' to a corner which is then entered awkwardly. Continue up it to a loose crack which is climbed direct to the top. the finish is steep and loose and requires care. A direct line.
takes the right hand fault.... Climb the fault direct which trends rightward. Very loose.
A variation on St. Mary's Chimney. Climb the chimney for 20' undil it is possible to break out left up a thin shattered crack which is followed to the top. The finish is very unstable due to which it hasn't been led, bit inspite of this it is a very good climb.
Takes the deep crack between the buttress and the wall. The chimney is entered by a layback.
Takes the line of least resistance up the left hand side of the buttress. Variations are possible.
Climb the right hand side of the buttress by a crack which leads to a ledge, at 35'. Move left round the rib and trend left to finish.
The right side of the buttress consists of a steep slab. Start in the corner and climb diagonally left to the edge of route 8. (35'). At this point the slab steepens. Move into the centre and climb delicately to a ledge below the top. The slab is usually covered in sand, making the climb harder.
Lies between the last overhand and the first deep corner. Start between two holes in the rock and climb the wall for 20'. Move rigjht and climb the broken corner.
To the right is a small buttress. Start below a small corner at the base of the buttress and climb this to a ledge at half height. from here climb a thin crack in the wall to the top.
Takes the arete between two corners. The route is easily recognised by the deep V grove in the upper section. It is reached by climbing the wall on the right of the arete. The groove is taken direct.
This route and the next lie on the back wall of the bay.
The route is identified by a diagonal crack in the left hand side of the wall. Climb the crack to a horizontal break, then move right to overcome the bulge above. Make a difficult move to the right to reach a line of horizontal holds which are followed to the left to finish.
Takes the middle of the wall. Start just left of a hole and climb straight up to the horizontal break. Contimue up for 10' then trend left to finish. Harder than the last route.
The next three routes lie on the right wall of the bay.
Takes a vague crack line 15' from the corner of the bay. The start is steep but eases after a few feet. Continue to the top.
This route takes a short groove in the middle of the wall. Climb to the base of the groove and enter it with difficulty. Continue easily to the top.
Takes a crack line 15' from the arete. It is climbed direct, the crux being a bulge.
Takes a direct line up the arete. Pleasant. A number of variations are possible.
Right of route 18 is a wall and beyond this a cave at the head of a channel. The climb lies just to the right of this, taking a narrowing corner in its upper section. Climb a short wall to a recess, eneter the corner with difficulty and continue to the top.
The rock and style of climbing now begin to change. Less loose rock is found and becomes reminiscent of other sandstone outcrops in Northumberland. Friction imporves and climbs become more technical.
The next obvious features are ther deep corners to the right.
Runs up the left wall of the first corner. Start in the corner and climb the wall, trending leftwards. An awkward mantleshelf halfway is the crux.
The corner contains two cracks. The route follows the right hand one of these.
Takes the second corner. The corner is started with difficulty and climbed for 20' to a ledge on the right wall. Above is a huge detached flake. Climb the right hand side of this, to the top. The flake appears unstable and care should be exercised.
On the left wall of the third corner is a crack. Climb the overhang and enter the crack by layback. Continue in this manner to the top.
The crack 5' right of the last route. Straight up.
To the right is a steep wall containing a small roof. The wall is split by an obvious zig-zag crack. This has been climbed on a tight top rop. It could be led by a 'strong' leader.
Right of Fall Out is a steep wall, the upper section being split by two parallel cracks. Gain a peg in the horizontal crack beneath these by a series of strenuous moves. Using the peg for aid enter the cracks and follow them to the top. A peg, low down, (in situ) can be used for protection.
The thin crack to the right. Climb it, using two slings for aid, Enter the scoop with difficulty and continue to the top.
To the right ofroute 27 is the detached block marking the end of section D.
Climb the left areate of the block and the short wall behind it. There are plenty of
(Web editors note - the ony available copy ha the rest of the guide missing. The NMC guide says of the rest of the crag "Round the block are several easier routes including the chimney behind it. The usual way down is to reverse the following route.")
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