Northumbrian Climbing Guide

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Worrisome Wasp, Coe Crag

Problem 4, Salters Nick, Shaftoe


This guide complements the definitive guides "Northumberland Climbing Guide" and "Northumberland Bouldering" published by the NMC and together with those guidebooks constitutes a definitive guide to climbing in Northumberland.

  • Takeaway guides are available for all of the minor crags with recorded routes
  • Additional information on the major crags
  • First Ascent details, where known
  • New routes and problems
  • Details of someroutes which never made it into the guidebooks
  • Photos, including 1st ascent photos
  • Up to date access information, maintained by the BMC access rep
  • Camp sites
  • "The crags before the climbers" - the archaeology of the crags, by Derek Cutts
  • SSSI status of all crags is shown.

News and information on crags in Durham, Cleveland and North Yorkshire can be found at Climbonline
More bouldering news & information & photos &videos at

Latest Access Issues
Kyloe In (Dues Heugh) Shooting takes place in this woodland,check at the gate for any signs warning of this.Keep the gate clear at all times, so that a tractor and trailer can freely turn in from the road. Park off the tarmac and on one side of the road only. A notice from the woodland management company has been posted on the gate. It reads: "Deerstalking takes place within this woodland on a regular basis as part of ongoing forestry management activity. When the stalker is onsite a warning notice will be erected here and for your own safety access to the woodland will be prohibited."
Shaftoe Please respect the 10 mph speed limit at the cottages, the track is not a right of way for vehicles and residents of the cottages have every right to ask the landowner to ban cars. Also, at the farmer's request, parking is by the wall after the 1st cattle grid NOT by the pond.
Church Rock 
Queens Crag An honesty box has been introduced, please leave 1 when parking on the farmers land.

Recent changes

03/04/2010 Ratcheugh Crag has been cleaned and is in the process of hacing it's guide redone and placed on here.
08/10/2009 Tosson Pillar has routes added
10/10/2007 Added new problems to White House Rocks and Lemmington Woods, in V2-V7 range, courtesy of Chris Graham
28/07/2006 Updated Edlingham Crag, adding new probems to the Bobs Cave area fom Chris Graham and Stuart Campbell
01/06/2005 Added Bradys Crag, a small child friendly bouldering venue near Chollerford on the Roman Wall
22/05/2005 Started putting some early1st ascent photos up. See Little Wanney, Selby's, East Woodburn, Thrunton. More to follow.
26/04/2005 Photo topos for Redheugh Crag added + A couple of good new problems are described
27/03/2005 The frames have been removed so that bookmarking and cut & past of URL's is improved. This should also improve search engine listings. A few other cosmetic changes have been made.
28/09/2004 Jesmond Dene added.
27/09/2004 Causey Quarry added (mostly from old NMC guide, with some assistance from Stu Wilsons North of England guide)
03.09.2004 Campsites added
11/08/2004 Colour coding representing the rocktypes added, together with star ratings on crag lists
08/08/2004 Added SSSI information to the crag descriptions. If a crag is in an SSSI a green 'SSSI' icon is shown in the access box. If the crag is the subject of an SSSI the icon is red. The icon links to the relevant English Nature web page.
12/07/2004 White House Rocks have been added. This is a sandstone bouldering venue with problems in the lower grades. Thanks to Will Walker and John McRoberts for the information.
27/06/2004 Photo's are now shownalong with the with routes in the Miniguide, and the" printer friendly" version has become a "takeaway" guide with the approach added, and is the version you're meant to take to the crag.